
I took the train north from Delhi to Shimla ( the summer capital of the British Raj ). The latter section involved a 'toy' train which rises up 1000m (as it approaches the Himalayas) and enters 100 tunnels. Without fail, every tunnel was greeted by feverish whoops of joy from all under the age of 40. Names of pre-booked seats are on a list pinned to the outside of the carriage..

Each time the train stops, a man or boy jumps into your carriage crying ''Chai, Chai, Chai!" (sweet milky tea,tea.tea) or "Paratha, paratha, paratha!" (flatbread filled with potato). Enthusiasm can often be followed by frustration and disappointment...
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