I took the train north from Delhi to Shimla ( the summer capital of the British Raj ). The latter section involved a 'toy' train which rises up 1000m (as it approaches the Himalayas) and enters 100 tunnels. Without fail, every tunnel was greeted by feverish whoops of joy from all under the age of 40. Names of pre-booked seats are on a list pinned to the outside of the carriage..
My bag was too big for the luggage rack and virtually for the carriage which meant it almost ended up in the loo. The convenciences as you can see are more honest than those of First Great Western but same rules apply when in-station.
Each time the train stops, a man or boy jumps into your carriage crying ''Chai, Chai, Chai!" (sweet milky tea,tea.tea) or "Paratha, paratha, paratha!" (flatbread filled with potato). Enthusiasm can often be followed by frustration and disappointment...
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